Loose Lay
Lay the artificial grass out and trim to size. It will stay flat by its own weight on any flat even surface.

Aqua Bond Adhesive
Lay and cut the artificial grass as above but instead of leaving it loose, use our Aqua Bond Adhesive to stick it to any clean smooth surface. This will prevent strong winds lifting the corners of the artificial grass.

If the surface to be covered will accommodate stapling such as exterior ply or decking, use a staple gun or tack/nail it directly to the wood. This will prevent strong winds lifting the corners of the grass.

Concrete/ Patio Base

Make sure that the surface to be covered is clean and smooth ready to receive the artificial grass. A self-levelling compound available from any DIY store or alternatively wet cement troweled out can remove surface imperfections, that may show through to the top surface especially on thinner pile height products.

Lay the artificial grass on to the clean/level area to be covered. Allow approximately 50mm of artificial grass to trim off to make that perfect edge i.e. in doorways or up a wall. Leave for around 1 to 2 days to settle. This helps stop any wrinkling or creasing occurring.

Cut and trim your artificial grass, using a sharp Stanley knife making sure there are no gaps between walls and grass.

Make the seams using our Joining Tape and Aqua Bond Adhesive to give strong weather resistant bonds.

Soil/Sand /Grass base

All grass should be removed using either a turf cutter or dug by hand with a garden fork and spade. The latter can be extremely hard work and time consuming, this should be taken into account. Turf cutters can be hired for between £50-£80 locally and are simple to use, most gardens turf could be removed in an hour or two maximum. All turf should be removed at a depth of about 10 cm to ensure no regrowth or slumping of soil.

You should then compact the ground, using a vibrating plate which can be hired at an equipment hire centre but for smaller areas something as simple as the back of a shovel will do the job. This is also the case if it is a soil or sand base when you start the preparation. If you do not already have a sand or mot surface, we recommend you now cover the area with between 2 to 5 cm of sand, This should be raked and levelled as your final surface will be a mirror of however smooth and flat this now is. A slight gradient should be allowed for for water drainage, though this should of naturally been in place before hand.

Now go over once more with a vibrating plate (Whacker plate more formally known) and any final imperfections a loose layer of sand or raking will erase. We personally recommend the ground still having a weed barrier as we expect your grass to be in place for 15 or 20 years, so maximum prevention of weed is worthwhile. Peg down the weed barrier using galvanised nails, tent pegs or something similar.

Our dense tufted grasses which require no sand filling can be finished in a manner of ways to gain tension. It can be buried under soil or paving slabs that it will be running into. Or by fixing a timber tantalised edge located in the ground, by wooden pegs. If you screw one 200mm peg every 1500mm to your tantalised timber and hammer this in around the edging, this creates a perfect edge for the grass to be finished and invisibly nailed to. This is recommended on at least one of your four sides, though can be added at a later date if any movement occurs.

Lay the artificial grass on top of the weed barrier (as opposed to dragging it across the weed barrier). Allow around 60mm of artificial grass to trim off around edges to make a perfect finish. We recommend you leave the grass for at least 4 hours if you are not using a carpet stretcher or similar tool to tension any creases or bumps may have to be left for up to 48 hours to settle. This
will also help stop any wrinkling or creasing from occurring.

If any creases still remain pull the grass by hand and spike using a tent peg, long galvanised nails or wooden bbq skewers and repeat the opposite side if necessary then cut and trim your artificial grass, using a sharp Stanley knife ensuring there are no gaps between walls and grass. Always use sharp blades. The spikes used can be removed once settled or knocked in so they will be invisible though still securing.

For best results use our Aqua Bond Adhesive and Joining Tape. This will give you perfect grade joins between sections of artificial grass on any surface.

If you require any further help or advice,
please call Rob on 07973 258615